Eye on Cutlery

Welcome

2009-12-28T20:32:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Eye on Cutlery...

Here you will find articles and reviews of products that I have featured.

You will also find the odds and ends that I want to post,

Enjoy,
Marion
marion.poff@gmail.com

If you are interest in the Spyderco Mule Team Knives, be sure to check out the blog I have dedicated to this subject at... http://muleprojects.blogspot.com/

And, if you would like to see my Custom Concealex sheaths, check out... http://marioncarry.blogspot.com/

An article I wrote some time back, about making fire with a Ferrocerium Rod.

2009-12-14T13:38:00.001-08:00

Ferrocerium Rod Fire

These days, many people find themselves recreating in the great outdoors. And just as there are many ways to enjoy yourself, there is always the chance that your adventure could take a turn for the worst. Whether you plan to spend the afternoon out or commune for a week, whether you hike or mountain bike, snowmobile or ski, you need to prepare for the chance that your outing could include an emergency.

Prudent preparation will naturally include a first aid kit, and some sort of emergency necessities kit. Of course, having studied wilderness emergencies, your kit will include three different methods of starting a fire, obeying the rule of three. And along with some sort of knife, like a Swiss army knife, or Leatherman-style multi-tool, carrying a tool to start fires provides a firm foundation for your kit.

Common tools for starting fires have their failings. Matches get wet, crushed, break, or you run out of them. Lighters run out of fuel, break, get flooded or simply do not work at higher elevations. These disadvantages warrant the investigation of other firestarting tools. Because, of all the tools that you take into the wilderness, the one that starts your fire is one of the most important. And of all the alternates, the ferrocerium rod may just be the perfect tool to replace these less than ideal tools, and the ferrocerium rod is definitely a tool to round out your roster of firestarting methods.

Now, when you hear of a ferrocerium rod, you may wonder, what does this have to do with fire? The answer is that ferrocerium is one of the foundation substances in modern fire. The sparks in your lighter, or your furnace, the sparks that light your lantern, all are most likely created by a bit of ferrocerium. It may be hidden, or too small to be noteworthy, but ferrocerium is usually the source of that spark. Ferrocerium rods are sometimes identified as a 'flint' or as a 'metal match', as well as a number of brand names. For the purpose of this article, I will abbreviate the name, as you will find in some references, to 'ferro rod'.

In use, the ferro rod is scraped to produce a spark hot enough to ignite appropriate tinder, even in less than ideal conditions. Conveniently, most ferro rods are of a size that accommodates their use for years, while being small enough to carry without undue concern for weight. Ferro rods are resistant to being broken, especially in the larger diameters. And for the purposes of emergency preperation, one of their most important features is that they are waterproof, functioning once the surface water is removed.

The most common method of using a ferro rod is to scrape the side of the rod with a piece of hard metal, like a hacksaw blade that has been modified by removing the teeth or a scraper manufactured specifically for the task. While many ferro rods include a striker, some do not. In that case, just about any hard sharp edge, such as a rock or a piece of glass can be used to produce sparks, though you will likely find improvised scrapers to be less effective. Your knife can also be used to scrape the ferro rod.

The scraper is stroked along the length, the scraping separates bits of the rod, and the friction ignites them. The sparks created are very hot, 1200* F, and ignite the tinder you have prepared. Most commonly the ferrocerium rod is held stationary with the end in the tinder and the striker moving downwards. Alternately, Jeff Randall of Randall Training Adventures tells of a method where the striker can be held stationary, and the rod is put in motion. He advises that it is a good method for when the down stroke of your striker may scatter your tinder or extinguish the tiny flame. In the case of an injury or other mobility impairment, the second method may work better. A knife or axe can be stuck in a log, and the flint can be stroked along the edge, showering sparks into your tinder. The second method also works when using an improvised striker, which may be hard to control, such as an axe or machete. In my use of the various ferrocerium rods, I have found moving the striker sideways while downward helps to create a bigger spark, almost as if you are sawing a spark off. Another consideration is the size of the rod, generally, a larger ferro rod will allow more contact with the scraper, thus, more sparks.

Many of the commercially available ferrocerium rods come with magnesium, included to help start your fire. While appropriate tinder will light with only a spark or two from the ferrocerium rod, some, like Chris Janowsky of the World Survival Institute, choose to have the magnesium available for times when the tinder is damp. They advise to build a pile of magnesium shavings, place your tinder over top, and light the magnesium. The rising heat from the magnesium burning at 5400* Fahrenheit will dry and help ignite stubborn tinder.

When speaking of carrying the various firestarters, I would like to stress the importance of having your fire-starter with you at all times. To accomplish this task I like to replace the usual leather cord with utility cord. Putting the utility cord in allows a lengthening of the cord, making room for a loop so that you can secure the firestarter in such a manner as to have it with you at all times. Remember while it is possible that you may still have all your rucksack with in an emergency, it is also very possible that your emergency may consist in part, of missing or lost gear, and in that sort of situation, what you have on your person may be your only hope.
Beyond how to employ a ferrocerium rod, and techniques for best results, let us discuss the commercially availabe ferrocerium rods...

The ferrocerium rod from Simply Survival is simplicity itself. It consists of a 3/8 inch diameter ferrocerium rod drilled to accept a cord, a hacksaw striker, and a leather cord to string between the two. Of all the different offerings, this is probably the one I like the most. I found that due to its simplicity, it was the tool I reached for, it throws a large spark that will light any properly prepared tinder of appropriate composition. And speaking of appropriate tinder, Greg Davenport of Simply Survival, in his book “Wilderness Survival” explains “Tinder must have edges, air and be dry” Edges to catch the spark, Air to circulate and feed the flame, and be Dry enough to light.

Chris Janowsky of the World Survival Institute offers the Hot Spark P-60. The Hot Spark performed very well, throwing a really good spark. It also has a couple of features that make it very user friendly. The ferrocerium rod and magnesium of the Hot Spark are mounted in a wood handle, which provides a good hold. As well, the end of the wood handle nearest the rod is angled to put the flint rod right over the tinder at a convenient angle. And in an emergency, the wood of the handle can be shaved for tinder. As a plus, the P-60 comes with a belt sheath. WSI also offers a number of other models, including one exactly like the P-60 with the addition of a ceramic sharpening rod and simple models consisting of the ferrocerium rod and magnesium drilled to go on your key-chain.

Mag/Flint FireStarters offers two styles of fire-starters. One style consists of a flint rod epoxied to a magnesium rod, with a handle of antler. The antler is drilled to accept a leather cord to which a hacksaw striker is attached. These antler-handled fire-starters were very comfortable to use. The other models are without handle, meant for key-chain use, so that you may never be without the means of starting a fire. Both styles come in different sizes, and all of them accomplishing the task of starting a fire. Linda Potter, the Mag/Flint FireStarters headlady, recounted to me the numerous times she had been thanked, her firestarters having come in handy and in some cases saving lives. These stories highlight the importance of having the capacity to make a fire with you at all times.

Strike Master Survival Tools offers three different styles of flint rod based fire-starters in multiple sizes. The key-chain style in the model sent to me, is combined with a neck strap and whistle making a sort of self-rescue set, excellent as an introductory preparedness gift. And if you did not care for the neck lanyard and whistle, you could simply add the leather pouch containing flint rod, magnesium and striker to your key-chain. The H25 has a well-sized wood handle, positioned at the end of the flint rod and magnesium, making the tool very comfortable to use, and perfectly sized for wearing in a belt sheath. The P25 is also handled with wood the flint and magnesium end to end, epoxied to the wood handle. The P25 is a slimmer package, perfect for slipping into your pocket. Both the P25 and the H25 are drilled to accept the included leather cord and hacksaw striker, and in an emergency, the handles of both being wood can be scraped to provide tinder in an emergency.

Ultimate Survival aka Survival Incorporated offers the Blast Match and the Strike Force. The Blast Match was specifically designed to be used one-handed. And it works exceptionally well, throwing a shower of large, hot sparks. One consideration with the Blast Match is that it needs a firm surface to pushed against, when used one-handed. The Strike Force consists of a ferrocerium rod in a hardy plastic sheel, one end holds the rod, the other end holds the strkier, and they are held together with a nylon cord when not snapped together. The Strike Force is also unique among the various firestarters, it has a space for tinder to be stored. The Strike Force is the largest of the reviewed tools, perfect if you want an easy to grip package.

Light My Fire of Sweden offers the FireSteel in two sizes. Both models share a plastic cap/handle that bears a lanyard hole for attaching the included striker to the FireSteel with cord, also included. The larger model, known as the Army, is a 3/8 inch flint rod, and it comes with one cap color, black. As I understand it, the Army model is in use with the Swedish military, which does not surprise me, the large rod throws an excellent spark. The smaller model, the Scout, is the same as the Military, except with a thinner flint rod and is available with different colored caps. I found the Fire Steels to be convenient in use, the cap providing a good hold. I think both styles of FireSteel are a good value, simple and effective. The Scout model may just be the perfect ferrocerium rod for the minimalist hiker that wants emergency fire-making capability without 'excessive' weight. MagFire offers a similar product, comparable to the Scout model. And if you are looking for a ferro rod with a handle in the shape of a flame, check out

Last among the flint and magnesium tools I will mention the standard block of magnesium with a ferrocerium sparking insert. This tool is sometimes known as the Doan tool, after the name of the company that makes them, Doan Mfg. This firestater is commonly available from Coghlan’s in many outdoor and sporting goods stores, and sometimes at your local army/navy surplus. Commonly available and simple, it will accomplish the task of starting a fire, though you will have to provide a striker.

Finally, I would like to deviate slightly and mention, the Spark-Lite from Four Seasons Survival. This is really a system, not just a ferro rod fire starter. The Spark-Lite, is a plastic body, the size of four common wood matches, with a wheel similar to what is on a lighter, the wheel strikes a bit of ferrocerium when you rotate the wheel, throwing a small shower of sparks. The Spark Lite comes in a plastic box that also contains 8-10 FireTabs, the FireTabs are cotton soaked in a mixture that makes them very water resistant, as well as quick to light. The box is small enough to fit in a pocket, perfect for hip pack kits and such. In use, the Spark-Lite very quickly lights the FireTabs. This system seems the best to me for those who would practice little before they needed their firestarter, or for those who prefer a compact system. Among it’s advantages is that it can be used one-handed, and it functions once any water is blown out of the action.

The ferrocerium rod, in its various forms, is one of the best tools available for starting a fire in the wilderness. The ferrocerium rod provides a durable, long-lasting, effective fire-starter. When trekking into your next adventure, take a ferrocerium rod along with you, you will only be safer and more comfortable for doing so. And remember, practice before you need it, and you will be ready when it counts. “Hope for the best, Prepare for the Worst.”

A note of caution, if the edge of your knife is all you have, then by all means use that, but if the spine of your knife is available that would be preferable since the heat of the sparks and the metal of the ferrocerium rod may blunt or dull the edge of your knife. If you decide to use the edge of one of your Swiss Army knife or multi-tool implements, be careful to remember that it folds, and you don't want it folding on you. As a final note of caution, remember that you are working with fire, which can be very destructive if left to it's own devices. "...fire: a dangerous servant and a terrible master". --George Washington

Marion

Precision Grips from Halpern Titanium for the Spyderco Mule Team Knives

2009-12-14T13:32:00.000-08:00

Halpern Titanium manufactures Precision G-10 Grips for the Spyderco Mule Team Knives.

Halpern Titanium, of Three Rivers Massachusetts a long time partner of Spyderco, met with the Spyderco Team in Golden Colorado some months past. At that meeting the Halperns were asked by Sal Glesser to turn their expertise in precision manufacturing to the task of building handles scales, or grips for the Spdyerco Mule Team Knives. And Halpern Titanium decided to offer a Mule handle scale, as it was a great opportunity that fit with their manufacturing strengths and represented another great way to collaborate with Spyderco.

Knowing nothing of this, I saw Sal mention that Halpern Titanium were looking into making grips, in a thread at BladeForums and as I have a deep interest in such things, I contacted them. Their response was swift and communicated a real enthusiasm for the project.

Within a couple days, they announced on their forum at the Usual Suspect Network that they would be making grips for the Mules. This announcement was met with real interest, as to date, they are the only company making a 'production' handle scale for the Spyderco Mule Team Knives. Within a short period, a sign-up for 20 sets was announced and sold out.

A few weeks passed, until an opening in their production schedule came around. Then, the announcement was made that they would be offering two different grip options. Option 1, dubbed, 'Ready to Use', are grips and hardware that allow the owner of a Mule, to buy handles for their Mule, install the grips in a couple minutes and then be onto the serious business of enjoying their knife, fully functional with handles. Option 2, dubbed, Do It Yourself, are grips machined for hardware, and with the perimeter or 'profile' cut, but allowing the customer to finish them in a any shape or texture that they would like. Announced at the same time, that they had decided to manufacture more than 20 sets, because they wanted to be able to offer the grips to the wider market.

Then came the day of their arrival....

We had a decent snow here, so it was a bit like Christmas. I woke up, and looked outside to find my mailbox full and my yard covered in snow. I made myself do the responsible thing, and shovel the walk first, then I could sort through the mail.

Just as I thought, the Mule Grips from Halpern Titanium were there.

And upon opening the box, I found all the contents very nicely wrapped and packaged, you could even say that they were lovingly packaged, with double bubble wrap, just to make absolutely sure that they arrived safely.

And, after separating the grips from the packaging, I was ready to go find everything else....

So, I assembled all the tools necessary, my favorite being the Husky Tools Torx Driver with all the different sizes. I also, dug through boxes to find my Spyderco CPM-M4 and ZDP-189 Mules.

Assembly went well, after just sort of going at it, I figured out that it was easiest to fasten one screw to each spacer, line one grip up with the holes in the Mule, and push the spacer with attached screw through. Then, I could hold the grip on, while placing the second grip on the other side, over the spacers. Then it was simplicity to finish the job by adding the last screws.

But, then, when I went to place the grips on my ZDP-189 Mule, I found that there was small amount of slag in the hole, that kept the spacers from going in with hand pressure, so for the sake of images, I just put those scales on my 9Cr18Mo Mule, which proved no challenge.

Later, I spoke to one of my brothers, who is much better with tools than I am... He suggested I use a hammer, and try to coax the spacers through the holes. He has a great deal of experience with such things, as he is a mold cleaner and process tech for the plastics industry. Having been given good advice, I was still a bit hesitant, because the ZDP-189 Mule is know for it's high hardness. But, starting by placing the Mule on a towel, I got the spacers into the holes with the hammer, taking care to keep the force low. Then I went out to the shop, and placed each spacer, one by one, over a hole in a piece of wood, and applied the hammer. Worked like a charm. Then, a small session of grip swapping began.

As people have seen and read more about this run of grips, there has been some concern raised about the fact that the grips do not extend out to the edge of the tang, that they are not the same size as the tang of the knife. My opinion is that given the manufacturing options Halpern Titanium was faced with, the solution they chose is a fine alternative, perfectly functional, and quite a bit less expensive than a custom-fitting.

In this situation, there are three choices a manufacturer of after-market handles for a full tang knife can make.

1. They can try to match the contours of the model as perfectly as possible, but given natural manufacturing tolerances, the grips will not match exactly. This is due to the fact that both items, the grips and and the tang of the knife can vary. This makes for a very inconsistent looking product.

2. The grips can be made larger than the tang, but then, the purchaser has to 'fit' or modify the scales to fit his knife. This makes the product a DIY project, which is the not the purpose of this option. Many customers do not want a DIY project, they want to bolt grips on, and use their knife. Honestly, I prefer a bolt-on and done product to one I have to modify before I can use. Some people are prepared to modify a product before they can use it, but I would hazard a guess that most are not.

3. Or, they make the grips smaller than the tang, which gives a finished appearance, and makes the product ready to use. This method has a strong following in the industry, being used by Chris Reeve, Benchmade and others.

I have found that having the tang proud of the handles is really no pain. The quarter inch thick scales fill the hand, and generally mute the effect of the tang sticking out. Ironically, a friend of mine came over, and I was filling him in on what was going on, and the new grips from Halpern Titanium. He picked up the knife, and said... "Oh, this is really nice. These new handles feel really good. Phenomenal!" Then, I pointed out that the handles were not flush with the steel. He had to pick the knife back up, look at it again, and said "No, what? These are great, I didn't even notice, with the way these handles fill your hand. In fact, I like the way these look. The way you can see the steel around the edges of the handle scales, really sets the handle scales off."

When they arrived, the grips were a bit pale in color. I believe this is partly due to a lubricant used in machining. Also, as a surface effect, grips such as these made of G-10 or micarta, tend to look a bit better when oiled. A common practice among knife-makers is to oil micarta, for a slightly darker appearance. This also happens naturally, with exposure to the oils of hand, with use, over time. Note - In a later conversation with Marianne of Halpern Titanium, she confirmed that it is common to oil the handles, and makes for a richer color.

As I have handled the Mules, and they have darkened with use, I really have to say that I like the color. I had expected the Strider Ranger Green to be a bit darker, but I like it.

I am very pleased with these grips. I find them to be functional in every practical way. Halpern Titanium has succeeded in providing an inexpensive and practical production handle scale option for the Spyderco Mule Team Knives.

And when you consider value, they are quite an attractive option. The least expensive Mule was $20, but the average cost for one of the Mules, has been $56, which makes the G-10 grips from Halpern Titanium pretty cheap at $25. And, with the grips being inexpensive, it makes it attractive to order an extra pair for future Mule knives, remember, we are just getting started with these Mules. I wish I had purchased a set of the Coast Guard Orange scales, as well.

If you are interested in purchasing a set of grips, in either option, please contact Melanie of Halpern Titanium at 413-283-8627, as I understand it, they have grips in stock, shipped for about $30. They had planned on making only 20 sets of handle scales, but they decided to expand the run.

And finally, just for fun, I took a group picture of all my Mules, with their handles.

Marion

PS - If you are curious about the hardware that these grips are mounted with, I have a couple images here..... http://spyderco.com/forums/showpost.php?p=544132&postcount=23

Part II

Oil your G-10 grips for best appearance.

As you may have read in my review of the Halpern Titanium G-10 grips, I mentioned that they were a bit pale in color at first, and that over time, with exposure to the oils of the hand, they would darken up. I also reported that some customer makers oil their G-10 and Micarta with Mineral Oil.

Here I have borrowed an image from my review, for this this article. It shows the pale color of the surface.

After reading my review, Marianne Halpern of Halpern Titanium confirmed that the grips would benefit visually from an application of oil, and she suggested a product called LPS TKX or the old standby WD40.

So, I decided to get some oil, and see how it worked. At the time, I was anticipating the arrival of a pair of Coast Guard Orange G-10 Grips from Halpern Titanium. I had not bought a pair of the orange, and then they were sold out, and I decided I wanted a pair. Then, a Spyderco.com Forum member, by the name of David, told me that he had bought a set of the orange, but that he was willing to part with them. And so, a deal was struck, and I waited for their arrival.

But, while I waited, I went looking for Mineral Oil.

First of all, I knew that Mineral Oil has in the past been used as a skin softener or conditioner. A jaunt over to Wikipedia will show that it's use is far more common than you might be familiar with, and that it is a close relative of white petrolatum.

So, I went to a couple stores, and after spending far too much time hanging out in the health and beauty area of my local market, stuck behind women gossiping about plucking, hair color changes and what they were to wear at their upcoming Christmas festivities, I was diverted to hardware, where I had to explain that while mineral spirits may have the word mineral in common with mineral oil, that was not what I was looking for. Strike One for Marion.

Then the day after Christmas came, and my wonderful partner and soon to be wife, needed to go shopping for supplies for our upcoming celebration. And among our adventures, I had some time at Wally World. After wandering through hardware and picking up a few things, I got focused, and headed over to the area around the pharmacy. There I found the staff very helpful, and I found a bottle of mineral oil, and at a very fine price.

Fast Forward to my return from the country, to my home, where I discovered that my Halpern Scales were waiting for me....

And, even more so than the Strider Ranger Green or the Black scales which I had already, the Coast Guard Orange grips were in need of a bit of oiling, being pretty pale, and not very rich in color.

Soon, I had very soft hands, thanks to mineral oil. And my Mule grips are wonderfully rich in color...

And images with a flash, for a bit more of the story...

Before

After

And finally, the best part of using mineral oil for this purpose is that it is, by all indications, non-toxic, and seemingly odor-less. Neither of which qualities are in abundance among oils and lubricants. Further, you can always use it soften your skin or stay regular.

Enjoy your Mules,
Marion

PS - I think white petrolatum will work for this purpose as well. But, as of yet, I have not tried it. M

PPS - The Strider Ranger Green and Black have also benefited from their exposure to mineral oil, not as greatly, as they already had some oil on them, but they did improve in richness of color. And a secondary benefit of the mineral oil could potentially discourage corrosion under the handle scales. M

Part III

New Colors and Slim Grips....

So, these have been out awhile, but I have simply been too busy to do anything but put fires out.... Hopefully the fine folks at Halpern Titanium are not machining pitchforks.....

Some time back, Halpern Titanium added Pink, Gray, Light Brown and Earth Brown to their line-up of Green, Black and Orange.

In addition to all the quality and precision exhibited by the grips I have previously reviewed, these new scales remedy the most common complaint about the first offering, as they now come very close to the edge of the scales.

And, they are also offering a Slim Grip, and the gray set of grips in my images represents that offering.

So, I will go straight to the images, and I will add some information as we go...

The new colors...

The new colors next to the old colors sans the black.

And some "stylish" images showing the an old color vs a new color, and the tang coverage difference.

And an image showing the two Browns in comparison to the Ranger Green.

An image showing the differences in thickness between the Slim Grips, and the full thickness grips, which are similar to the first offering.

Showing the old and the new side by side...

And a stand-alone image of the Gray Slim Grips, which of the new offerings, is the one I prefer.

That's all for now, and feel free to ask any questions you might have, on one of the threads I will start.

And remember, if you like what you see, you might think about buying the scales of your choice before the next run of Mules is released, else they may not be available when you want them. Grips go fast when the Mules are let to run...

HalpernTitanium.com

Thank you,
Marion

Cuscadi provides a Handle, Innovative and Exotic, yet Useful.

2009-11-10T01:44:00.000-08:00

Spyderco Knives and Accessories, a ground-breaking company and leader in the cutlery industry, has introduced a project called the Mule Team knives. In a nutshell, as many of you know, the Mule Team Project is a knife, made to the exact same specifications every time, but with the steel differing with each issuance. This allows a person to experience the steel of that issue, and compare it against other steels, without any other variations clouding your comparison. But more than that, the Mule Team is a useful knife. See Spyderco's latest Mule Team, the MT05 in the Chinese steel 9Cr18Mo for more details.

But, the Mule Team knives do not come with handles or sheaths. And this necessitates that the user, supply a handle, and if the knife is to be carried, a sheath.

So, as I began to acquire the Mule Team knives, I began to look for what options had become available on the after-market.

One of the first options I discovered was a company out of Germany, called Cuscadi (http://blog.cuscadi.de/)

I had originally seen their custom handle scales for folders. I contacted them and asked if they had ever done a set of handle scales for a Mule Team. And soon I received a reply from Luke, saying that they were at that very time, planning on making a set of scales for a Mule.

I came to learn that, Cuscadi manufactures after-market handle scales for quite a few different knives. What they do is a sort of outgrowth of the "Pimp Your Knife" sub-culture, owners, knife makers, and modifiers that take a knife, and re-tool it with non-standard materials and embellishments. Cuscadi works within this corner of the market, crafting custom handle scales and back spacers out of your choice of suitable materials, with very fine machined surface effects.

In speaking with Luke,, he informed me that he was interested in classic materials, like wood, for their nobility.

I informed him that I was interested in an 'Anso' style scale, which he told me would be no problem.

Luke, in our discussions, kept highlighting the custom nature of the service he provides. He made it clear, that if a material exists, and you can adequately describe what it is you want, he can most likely create a set of handle scales that will match your idea. This custom aspect also allows them to build scales for the first Mule, which had different hole sizes, or for the subsequent Mules.

As time came and went, he began to create a set of 'Anso' style scales for me, working from a prototype, into a finished product.

The handle scales offered by Cuscadi are bolt-on and removable. The first benefit is that you will not have to send your scales off to have them attached, Cuscadi can simply make yours and send them to you. The second benefit is that you can switch the handle scales from one Mule to another, if you so choose. With the high hardness of the 4th Mule Team knife, made of ZDP-189, the bolt-on handles of Cuscadi offer another advantage, they can be installed with very little stress applied to the blade.

Earlier, I mentioned that they offer a number of different materials and textures, but words do not convey the beauty of what Cuscadi creates.

From noble woods, to the most high-tech of materials, like cera-glass and carbon fiber, Cuscadi can mate a precious material with the surface effect of your choice to create a set of handle scales for your Mule, that is uniquely yours.

Check them out, and see if they have the goods to help you get a handle on your Mule. http://blog.cuscadi.de/?p=1127
The set of scales that Luke made for me, are on their way, and I should receive them soon, and I await their arrival with great interest.

But, I will leave you with a couple more images, to whet your appetite...

Marion

Post-Script....

I received my Cuscadi of Germany custom handle scales for the Spyderco Mule Team knife.

A package from Germany...

The handle scales, all fastened together, so that nothing is lost.

Getting everything ready for the assembly.

Assembled.

It was really quite exciting getting my new handle scales from Cuscadi of Germany. I was able to fasten them to the knife with no difficulty.

This knife, with it's new handle scales, has been in my pocket for about a month, and I quite like them. Great to look at, reasonably comfortable to use. So far, I feel like the Cuscadi of Germany custom handle scales represent a good value.

Marion

How Dare You Stand and Pee???

2009-05-08T17:47:00.000-07:00

How Dare You Stand and Pee???

Welcome to the Future.....

http://anti-strib.blogspot.com/2008/12/stehpinkein-or-sitzpinkler.html#links

Speechless, I am....

Marion

The shape of things to come....

2009-04-27T23:25:00.000-07:00

This is the shape of things to come....

Stay tuned....

Well, that was just a little teaser for my new knife...

And here is the rest of it...

Marion

My First Knife, The Sheriff

2009-04-22T18:50:00.000-07:00

Hi,

I just made my first knife, and I call it, The Sheriff.

Here is an image, down the spine, showing the profile.

I made it in the shop of Bob Alderman, of Tracker's Forge.

This is image is of it, and the parts I used to make it.

My sister, Juliette, took this really great picture of it.

I hope you enjoyed these images, if you want to see more, try my PhotoBucket.

Thank you,
Marion

Cool New Knives from Bob Alderman

2009-03-22T14:14:00.000-07:00

I have gotten to know a local knife-maker Bob Alderman, and the conversations we have had, including my friend Aaron, have led to Bob making some stuff that is new too him, but right up my alley.

He recently built a Bushcrafter, and it is available in 1/8th inch, for those who like thin knives.

I borrowed his image....

And his leather is pretty gnarly. Anway, he wrote about it over at http://trackersforge.blogspot.com/.

Also, Aaron and I saw a 'trail' knife that Bob had made, and we told him we thought it was pretty cool, so this is what he came up with....

You can see images of them individually at http://s573.photobucket.com/albums/ss176/trackersforge/

But the really cool part, is that the middle knife, converts to a draw knife.

Anyway, just thought I would tell you all about it.
Marion

A local bladesmith of some note....

2009-03-12T00:21:00.000-07:00

I recently made the acquaintance of a bladesmith of some note, Bob Alderman.

His work has been featured in the major publications, and I can see why, it is museum quality.

You might want to check him out, you can do so at.... http://trackersforge.blogspot.com/

Here are images of some of his work.

How To's for Kydex/Boltaron Sheaths, a link list and a few tips.

2009-02-26T07:07:00.000-08:00

Well,

I have been doing some research on how to make kydex/boltaron sheaths, and I was invited to share what I had found.

Voila!

My perception may be different than yours, because I have seen a good number of sheaths being made by a local knifemaker, so my main goal was finding tips and tricks, and ways to do this on the cheap, and I found the following information helpful. Maybe you will too.

My favorite, why, I don't know... Maybe it was because it was my first...
http://usualsuspect.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69130 but you have to be a USN member (hint - just register :)

In the vein...
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/798562/tp/1/

Not for knives, but, thermoforming is thermoforming....
http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/KYDEX-HOLSTER-and-SHEATH-MAKING-t34596.html&mode=threaded
http://www.steyrclub.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2602
http://www.txdpsa.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1496
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1081917
http://edcforums.com/index.php?topic=2621.msg34885

Not my favorite style of sheath, but a bunch of good information. And a great tip for use of small clamps.... you will have to read it to find out.
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8465

Again, not a style I like, but informative.
http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_kydexsheath.htm
http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_kydexsheath2.htm

And a word about searching.... I found some of my best results with a Google image search for 'kydex press', then when I found images that looked promising, I would check out their context. In fact, I just went further with that search and found the following threads and such....

http://www.smithtac.com/KnifeRefinishing.html
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11293636
http://www.paracordsecrets.com/articles/22/article.html
http://www.defensivecarry.com/vbulletin/defensive-carry-holsters-carry-options/39371-make-your-own-kydex-holster.html
http://www.f1design.us/05_How_Toos/Kydex/index.htm

Of course, you also sometimes get some goofy stuff too, which is probably part of the fun. I won't mention what I found...... but creepy....

Oh, and a few observations of my own....

Knife Kits sells a 'hand setter kit' whatever for hollow rivets, I have no idea how these could actually work, so I have an arbor press and flaring dies on their way to me. If you should decide to get the 'hand setter' things, try Tandy Leather, they are called something else but are 4 times cheaper if memory serves. I tried to use the 'hand setters' and it was a flop, nor could I imagine how they could actually function, and I have quite an imagination. YMMV

Anyone want my really overpriced things that don't work???

One of the tutorials listed above mentions using gardening knee-pad foam, for press foam. I tried this, and maybe my foam is different, but I think that the foam would melt a bit much over time, which in time could create patterns that you would be pressing into your work. Just something to consider. I am still using the gardening knee-pad foam, but I have also ordered foam for this purpose, specially marketed for this purpose, from Knife Kits.... We shall see.

Kydex is one material. Boltaron is another material, which is often marketed as Concealex. One material is pvc based, the other is acrylic, I don't remember which is which. But both thermoform, and about the only way you can tell the difference is that Boltaron is a bit stiffer, and has a different surface texture. Spyderco has been using Boltaron for quite some time, so that may provide you with an example, if you have one of their fine fixed blade knives.

Zip ties, yes zip ties are a fine substitute for rivets, I found this out when I had to modify a pretty badly made sheath to get it to work the way I wanted. I have used them from the hole to the edge, or even from hole to hole, like stitching.

Well, all for now, I hope you found this useful.
Marion

Introduction to the Browning Crowell and Barker Competition Knife....

2009-01-21T22:35:00.000-08:00

Sometime last year, a friend of mine and fellow knife hobbyist, asked me if I had seen the new Browning Cutting Competition Knife.

At that time, I had not, but he told me how much he loved it, and how effective in the great outdoors he felt it would be.

So, I went to my local cutlery shop, and while I was not initially overwhelmed by it, it grew on me.

It grew on me because I realized that it's form, it's shape and feature, while designed for cutting competitions, would also serve a man well in the woods.

Recently then, I had the opportunity to suggest the knife to a friend, who was in the market for such a knife.

A week or two later, he bought it.

And when he brought it over, I decided to take pictures, and blog it, since I have not heard a whole lot about this knife on the web.

In this first image, you can see it's overall shape, and you can probably guess at it's convex grind.

In this image, you see it in it's sheath, which can be worn tucked into the belt, without a loop, with just the metal stud on the sheath holding it above the waist line.

Here we have the knife in it's sheath, with the optional belt loop.

In this image, we have a close up of the handle.

Here I show it's tapered tang, and the contours of the handle.

A comparison shot of the the Browning Crowell and Barker Competition Knife next to an Ontario RTAK II.

And here it is next to a Spyderco Bill Moran Drop Point, and a Spyderco Perrin Street Bowie.

I hope you enjoyed this introduction, and if I can answer any question, email me at marion dot poff at gmail dot com.

The Gate to all Mystery

2008-12-09T04:22:00.000-08:00

Ever desireless, one can see the mystery.
Ever desiring, one can see the manifestations.

These two spring from the same source but differ in name;
this appears as darkenss.

Darkness within darkness.
The gate to all mystery.

--Lao Tzu, The Tao Te Ching, from One

Fixed Blade Handle Upgrade or New Handle in Less Than An Hour

2008-12-03T02:57:00.000-08:00

Fixed Blade Handle Upgrade or New Handle in Less Than An Hour

Sometimes, a knife you buy has a handle that is too slick, or does not offer enough traction. Or, in some cases, the knife has no sort of usable handle at all.

Well, there are all sort of solutions, some involve tools, like blowtorches and plungers and sockets....

But, there also solutions that don't require arcane skills of alchemy and an advanced degree in physics.

In fact, all you need is but a couple things, a knife you would like to improve, some bat tape, a small bit of cord, and a utility knife.

But, first let me tell you a story, about how these ideas came together....

It starts, in my experience, with Hockey.

You see, as a way of increasing friction, thereby creating a sure grip, hockey players wrap the handles of their hockey sticks with tape. And sometimes, they spin the tape into a sort of cord, and wrap it around the stick, with spaces between the 'strings' of tape, to create 'ridges', which they then cover with tape.

Well, I don't play hockey, and never payed attention to the Mighty Ducks movies, if there was a stick wrapping scene. But, I did own a Becker Knife and Tool knife or two. And I found them severely lacking when it came to grip security.

The general shape of the Becker handles is very smart, but the slick and smooth texture and topography of the handles is simply not suited to any grip security. By the way, when I say topography, I am using the word in the same way you would when speaking of a map, that is to say that topography is the shape of the land. And texture is to describe the small scale, for instance, the way molded handles will often have some sort of recurring shape molded into the surface, like the 'Gator' texture on some Gerber knives.

Or to use another example, let us think of knives wrapped in the popular Japanese silk wrap, like the Spyderco RJ Martin Kumo. The wrap itself is topography, creating valleys into which the flesh of your hand sinks. And the weave of the silk and the surface of the ray skin is the texture.

Back to the Becker, sometime later, I read, with great interest, that someone had experienced the same thing with the Becker handles, and had utilized their experience with hockey to solve the problem. They had wrapped the handle with 'strings' of tape, to create 'ridges', which they then covered Hockey tape.

So, this started me on a road that I will briefly summarize, before I describe the newest handles I have applied.

One of my first projects was removing the cheap cord wrap from the original SOG Vietnam Tomahawk handle, and replacing it with bat tape over mini-cord, which I found did offer a good deal of grip security, though I found the the cord under the wrap could cause hot spots.

Then I applied a wrap to an Americraft kitchen knife (a side line of Buck Knives). I used the shell of paracord, with spaces between the wraps, with bat tape over the paracord, and I was very happy with result. The bat tape offers a good bit of texture, and the valley and peaks of the paracord shell wrap creates lots of topography, like a silk wrapped Japanese handle, and the bat tape offers the texture and holds the whole thing together.

Before I describe my methods, and provide a mini tutorial on how I did my handle wrap, a word to materials.

Any small diameter cord can be used, the only concern being how will it feel or perform, under the wrap of tape. I have chosen to use just a couple of different cords. One is paracord, of which I am sure very few of my readers are unfamiliar. The other is a hard nylon cord which I call mini-cord, which is about 1/4 to 1/5 of the diameter of paracord. And as I have written, I have also used the shell of paracord, the core being removed.

And let us speak of tape. I am sure there are all sort of tapes that could be used, but I am familiar with two, of which I typically only use one. First, is hockey tape, which is less expensive, but it tends to have an adhesive finish when applied, which then gathers all sort of debris and dirt, not so bueno. Mostly, I use bat tape, which has some residual adhesive on the surface when finished, but which is much less than hockey tape. Also, the bat tape has a weave which provides a bit more friction, which I prefer.

So, how did I do it?

Well, having acquired two Spyderco Mule Team knives, one in 52100 and the other in CPM M4, I decided that until I acquire or make a more permanent handle, I wanted to apply a handle to them, so that I could use them, as I had opportunity.

To that end, I wrapped my M4 Mule in the shell of paracord, as I had with the Buck kitchen knife, though without the spaces, over which I applied bat tape. But, I found that the resulting handle was not of a sufficient girth to be really comfortable. I have fairly large hands.

Then, I wrapped my 52100 Mule with paracord, still containing the inner strands, and again placed bat tape over the top of it. And I like the feel of this combination for this knife.

So, for the purpose of this article and as a sort of mini tutorial, I removed the wrap of my M4 Mule, and took pictures as I replaced it with a wrap that I would appreciate more.

First, let me say this, I did not make safe the blade of the M4 Mule in order to wrap it without fear of cutting myself. Instead, I bulled ahead, and wrapped it, dangerously risking the shedding of blood. But, it does make for prettier pictures. So, my advice to you is to not be dumb like me, and to cover the blade, specifically the edge of any knife you intend to work on, to keep your precious blood inside. And while we are considering this idea of safety, let me say this..... You take my advice at your own risk. You hurt yourself, it is your fault, or at least it is not my fault, maybe it might be your hamsters fault.... Anyway...

Step 1 - Verify that you have chosen to do this in a safe fashion, and have made safe the edge of your knife. No image, see above.

Step 2 - Assemble your materials, and this will be a long and taxing step, as it will require the arduous task of assembling the knife to be wrapped, the cord to form the base of the wrap, and the tape to finish the wrap. Oh yeah, and another knife to cut the cord and the tape.

Step 3 - Wrap handle of knife with paracord, or paracord shell. I chose to start at the front of the handle. I started it by threading it through the first hole, and then wrapping over that little bit of cord with the first few times around the handle. I took care to keep the wrap fairly tight, and in this case, with little to no space between each succeeding revolution. Note - I like to have my knife and tape ready prior to finishing this step, so that I can easily cut the cord to length at the end of the wrap. And then, start taping the handle to keep the paracord wrap from unravelling.

Step 4 - Wrap the paracord wrap with bat tape. Bat tape is not particularly willing to stretch to fit the contours, but with a little coaxing and some patience, a satisfactory wrap can be had. I like to keep the tape tight during the wrap, and I also like to overlap the tape as I wrap. And I tend to wrap over the handle more than once, 4 seems to be the magic number for me. Note - Have that sharp knife handy, to cut the tape when you are done wrapping.

Voila! You have now created a handle, or improved a handle for your fixed blade knife.

If you choose to continue with this kind of modifications, the combinations of cord and tape can do more complex alterations. For instance, you can thicken a grip, by adding more wraps of tape, or thicker cord. Or you can even modify the shape of the handle, as I did with my Spyderco Hossom Woodlander.

I found the curves of the Spyderco Hossom Woodlander to be a bit fast, or shall we say, too curvy, great to look at, but not so effective for my hand. So I wrapped the index end of the grip with a couple extra wraps of bat tape, focusing on the smallest diameter section, to give it more girth. And I finished by wrapping the entire handle.

The resulting grip is really quite nice.

As a final note, if you were going to apply a handle in a fashion similar to the one I have applied, to a knife like the Mule Team, and were planning on using it with greater than average force, I would suggest a slightly different method. I would suggest that you intertwine the tape and cord, as you applied it, so that the adhesive of the the tape would anchor the cord to the surface of the knife handle. Or alternately, lace the cord through the holes in the handle, to lock the cord to the knife handle, so that it would not slip off. The former method would tend to be thicker, the latter thinner. The method I have outlined above could slip off, like a sock, if an appropriately large force was applied, or twist on the handle. And if you choose the 'cord through the holes' method, it could add some nice topography.

So, there you have it.

A way to create a handle for a knife that does not possess one, and a way to increase the grip security on a knife without sufficient topography or texture.

Spyderco Ralph Turnbull T-Mag Review

2008-11-30T01:02:00.000-08:00

First, I have to confess that I wish I could have written this review before this knife had been discontinued.

But, I bought this knife, because it was sold at Spyderco.com for $49.95, after it had been discontinued.

Before I relay my thoughts on this knife, I would like to acknowledge the conversations and discussions concerning this knife. When this knife became available for $50, there were a number of posters to the Spyderco Forums who asked about the T-Mag, and what other forum members who had bought the knife thought. When the response came, the consensus seemed to be that the T-Mag lacked a functioning lock.

So, it was with quite a bit of anticipation and maybe a bit of dread that I waited for the T-Mag to arrive at my door. It is not very often that one can buy a knife comprised of Crucible CPM S30V Steel and Carbon Fiber for $50, and alternately, I was wondering if I had made a poor choice.

Immediately, I was drawn to the T-Mag. It's state of the art materials, precision construction and innovative design are simply artful.

For instance, I have never been an amazed fan of the modern choil, especially on folding knives. With fixed blades, I grant the usefulness of the choil for reasons of balance, but on folding knives, I have often found the choil feature to be my least favorite part of the design. Alternately, with the T-Mag, I found the choil to be very natural to use, in fact, I like the choil on this knife.

Further, from the first night, I found that I opened and closed the knife over and over again, in an almost compulsive fashion. I found that I was absorbed by the action of the T-Mag, it's smoothness, the sure sound of it's retention both opened and closed, and the subtle action of the magnet. This quality of a knife, the way it operates and sounds, is described by collectors and aficionados as 'walk and talk', and among those consumers, a knife that possesses a good walk and talk, is a knife to be prized. The T-Mag has a great walk and talk.

Next, I began to examine my experience of this knife versus my experience with slip locks, the 'locking' method employed on multi-blade folders of the Case or Schrade variety. And, without a question, despite the lower retention value of the magnet, my experience of the knife was better. Why? Because I am never in fear of the the retention being suddenly released, as I am with a slip lock. I know that the magnet offers no real retention, and so I don't expect it to lock, the way some have come to expect a slip lock to lock. I immediately appreciated the subtle action of the magnet, which holds the T-Mag open, sufficiently to accomplish all sort of tasks.

Let us examine the issue of suitability. Is the T-Mag and it's retention, capable of performing work in a safe fashion? Yes, without question. The retention is sufficient to keep the blade from flopping around, and in a non-locking folder, that is all that is required.

And I have used the T-Mag for the kind of tasks that one associates with a gentleman's knife of this kind. It has cut string and cord, it has opened letters, it has cleaned my fingernails, it has opened packaging, and it has picked splinters. And it is well capable of cutting meat, carving wood and all other sort of cutting tasks.

An easy parallel is drawn in my mind between the T-Mag and the traditional puukko of Scandinavian design. To the uninitiated and novice, the puukko style of knife seems dangerous and poorly designed. But to the fan and regular user of this historic and highly developed pattern, those features that the detractor indicts, the aficionado praises as providing the function and differentiation of the design.

Does the T-Mag require a bit of mindfulness? Yes it does. But, that mindfulness is the mindfulness that should always be present. And with a moment of thought, a solution can be formulated that allows one to utilize the T-Mag in ways that might involve more force and greater work. One way that is immediately apparent is a side hold, with the thumb positioned on the side of the blade and all the fingers out of the way of the blade travel should it close. And if that is not sufficient, the T-Mag is very comfortable to hold inverted, with the thumb pushing against the blade in the choil region of the knife.

In short, this knife is not meant to assist one in combating black clad ninjas, in 'tactical' circumstances. Instead, it is meant to do the sort of everyday cutting that we often have need of accomplishing.

So, how do I square my positive experience of this knife with the discontinuation of the model?

Well, as in many things, the answer is complicated.

I think the first and most obvious thing is that the 'lock' did not meet many buyers expectation. Of course, the T-Mag was never meant to lock, but our vocabulary concerning these sort of things is limited.

Spyderco says this....

"Thank you for purchasing the Spyderco T-Mag, non locking folding knife. Please use care when using the knife, making sure that the forefinger is placed in the finger choil to prevent the knife from accidentally closing when being used."

And...

"It houses a powerful Rare Earth (Neodymium NdFeB) Magnet, mounted internally in the knife’s spine where the blade and handle join. The magnet performs the same function as a notch- or slip- joint, holding the blade open when used and closed when pocketed by way of magnetic pull. Gunmetal gray carbon fiber handle scales, and Titanium liners, have a pronounced finger choil that places the index finger behind the cutting edge further blocking the knife blade from closing when you’re cutting. "

So, we have a clear message, about the lack of a lock, the method of retention, and a safe method of use.

What gives?

I think the T-Mag is a victim of the delicate balance between innovation and expectation.

The T-Mag represents and embodies one of those steps forward that all technology and industries make.

These steps forward are often met with resistance, simply because it takes people awhile to modify their thinking to a new reality or a new perspective. I surmise that very few of the regular knife public collect knives just for their novelty, as I do. How many collect knives for their unique operation, or their unusual assemblage of common structures, or just because they offer something that strays from the beaten path?

To summarize....

The Spyderco Ralph Turnbull T-Mag is a state of the art knife, possessing high end materials and modern precision construction that result in a lightweight and refined gentleman's folder. It's design is centrist, demonstrating cleanliness of line while boldly stating it's place in the lineage of Spyderco design.

The Spyderco Ralph Turnbull T-Mag is a new and interesting concept that will be referenced by the cutlery industry for years to come.

I do not see this as a knife that did not succeed, but as a design that is way ahead of it's time.

The Spyderco Ralph Turnbull T-Mag is a piece of cutlery history.

Two Very Different Knives

2008-11-22T22:14:00.000-08:00

The Spyderco Ralph Turnbull T-Mag and the Spyderco Warren Thomas Karambit.

How different can two knives be?

One is built with absolute focus on strength and durability in a wicked self defense knife. The Spyderco Karambit is so focused that it lacks much use for anything else. But, it shines so bright in it's purpose as a self defense knife, that you have to respect it. Stainless steel handles for strength and durability, a Reeve Integral Lock for superb lockup, and a super sharp, super acute point to pierce and rip. Ouch.

The other knife, so much different. The Spyderco Ralph Turbull T-Mag is built light, and refined, so that you barely know it is there, until you need it, then it steps in, with a deft touch, to cut some stray thread, or to clean your fingernails. Carbon fiber handles for a very lightweight handle, a magnetic lock, for a clean operation, smooth and fast, with a great walk and talk.

Anyway, I took this picture, and it got me thinking.

Not a Taoist, but there is Truth here....

2008-11-22T02:24:00.000-08:00

Eleven

Thirty spokes share the wheel's hub;
It is the center hole that makes it useful.

Shape clay into a vessel;
It is the space that makes it useful.

Cut doors and windows for a room;
It is the holes which make it useful.

Therefore profit comes from what is there;
Usefulness from what is not there.

--Lao Tzu, The Tao Te Ching

Upcoming Review....

2008-11-22T00:30:00.000-08:00

I am working on a review of the Spyderco Ralph Turnbull T-Mag...

Eye on Cutlery, Opening Post...

2008-11-22T00:21:00.000-08:00

Good Day,

I shall be blogging here.

I will blog about cutlery, knives, their design, construction, use and whatever else I happen to have rolling around my brain....

Until then...

God Go With You as You Go,
Marion